1.19.2021

In Depth Haircare Routine for Oily + Flat Hair

In Depth Haircare Routine for Oily + Flat Hair

I've been changing up my haircare routine a lot this past year and have finally gotten to a place where I feel really good about my hair health. I had shown a couple of things I did in my nighttime and morning routine with my hair that yeiled a couple of questions that were a little too detailed to share on stories. So we are committing it to life here on the blog! 

In Depth Haircare Routine for Oily + Flat Hair

I will start out by saying that my hair has always been pretty healthy. I've never really struggled with damage or split ends and I always think it's important to note that. The real issue I struggle with is volume (not having enough) and oil (having too much). Both of which I think I have started to fix/get under control! Haircare isn't a one size fits all kind of thing and this is just what I do/what works for me. I'm obviously not a professional in any way but I wanted to share my routine for you to take bits and pieces from to use on your own hair!

You can read my last haircare routine/udpate from this time last year here, my first review and experience with Prose here, and an older hair routine from 2017 here

My Hair Type: 

My hair is overall oily, flat, and straight. Before I started using Prose (and really getting into taking care of my hair in general) it would become oily a few hours after washing. Oily around the roots and then dryer along the ends. I also have really fine hair where each strand is really thin BUT I have a lot of them so it makes my hair look more full/thick. 

My Hair History: 

I've never colored or treated my hair. I think that's something to note especially when it comes to my hair health. I also don't really use any product outside the shower other than hair oil and dry shampoo. No hairspray, no heat protectant, no style cream/spray. I *like* to think that the less I mess with it, the better it will be.

Haircuts: 

I would say on average I get my hair cut twice a year. It's been a little different as of late with COVID but the last time I got it cut was in July. I definitely need a cut right now but it's just not the right time. I usually just let my hairdresser do what he thinks is best in terms of cutting. He knows not to take it like to my ears so I trust him. I usually just ask for long layers throughout and a little bit of face framing.

Wash Schedule: 

I try and wash my hair as a little as possible honestly because it's a process and I don't like doing it that much. It definitely depends on what I'm doing that week as to when I wash but it generally goes like: day 1 wash, day 2 and 3 just brush and touch up with dry shampoo as needed, day 4 more full coverage dry shampoo, day 5 and 6 are either in a ponytail, headband or full top knot. Rinse and repeat. 

In terms of working out, I don't usually sweat that much so I rarely have any issues. But when I do workout and my hair is day 3 or less I'll tie it in a low pony with the Slip hairties. Day 4 or 5 I'll dry shampoo after my hair is dry (if I sweat a lot) and I try to schedule any heavy workouts around day 5-7.

Internally 

I will use collagen supplements and a probiotic when I remember. I use Shoremagic currently but I've also used Vital Proteins and Image Skincare collagen before. I also use Seed which is a synbiotic that (I think) helps with my overall skin and hair health. I don't take any kind of biotin because it causes deep cystic acne in my skin!

---

Pre Shower Masks: 

About twice a month I will do some kind of hair treatment/mask. I have been switching between two Prose ones (one for the scalp, the other for the ends). Sometimes I'll use them at the same time! I let them sit on my hair for about 15 minutes and I'll use a teletie in my hair to hold it up in the shower. 

They're not the most amazing masks I've ever used but I do really enjoy them and they do a good job giving my hair a refresh when I need it. But I also haven't really used many other masks on my hair so I might not be the best person to ask about it. The best one I've ever done is when I was young we put mayonnaise on my hair and let it sit for half an hour and it turned my broken chlorine straw hair into hair softer than a bunny. 

I have also used the Christoph Robin scalp scrub and I really liked it. It's great for when you have a lot of build-up either from products or dry shampoo. I ran out and just haven't repurchased since I have my Prose set. Maybe when it runs out or maybe I'll test out the Olaplex ones. I've heard nothing but good things. 

In-Shower Routine: 

For shampoo and conditioner, I've used Prose exclusively for the past 2-3 years. I really like it and it works really well on my hair. It's a custom blend formula that has a lot of great, clean ingredients (one being rice water, which is a big fad right now for hair growth). I know some have tried it and didn't love it and my recommendation is to just keep looking until you do. I would probably stay away from drugstore shampoo like Dove or Tresseme (especially with their class-action lawsuit -- make sure your shampoo/conditioner doesn't contain DMDM which has been linked to hair loss. Aka avoid anything on this list).

Again, I've heard nothing but great things about Olaplex which is worth checking out. Also, the SheaMoisture line has come highly recommended to me as well. Overall I would just say to find something in your budget that's a little more salon quality. I think the extra few dollars go a long way in healthy happy hair!

When I shampoo, I (begrudgingly) always shampoo twice. I know it was all a scam when they told us to on the back of the bottles but really, it helps! The first wash is to wash off the dirt and grime that builds up on your hair. The second is to clean your hair. Clean your scalp and hair and give it the nourishment it needs. You should really make sure the lather is good and going on the second round.

During my shampoo phase, I try to keep the water as cold as I can take it and wash it upside down. Cold/cool water is good for your scalp (I've heard) and it's a little easier to take when your body is outside the water zone. Washing my hair upside down has helped in two parts: 1. it lets me get a better scrub/more coverage on my scalp. I'm able to reach and clean more parts since there's just more surface area available upside down (does that make sense??). and 2. washing upside down helps with volume. I don't know why, but maybe it's training it to stand up? Either way, it's wild but it works.

When I'm shampooing for the second time, I'm really focusing on scrubbing and shampooing my scalp. Taking the time to really give it a nice little massage (like they do at the salon). Sometimes I'll use this scalp massaging brush but it's really not *that* needed. Warning that it will help your hair become a little more tangled.

For rinsing out (both times) I really take my time doing this. I think rinsing is one of the more important parts because you want to make sure the shampoo is 100% out of your hair. Otherwise, that's what can create build-up and excess oils in your hair. I like to put my showerhead on the highest pressure and basically, power wash my hair clean. I'll flip it upside down and right side up -- just as long as I feel like it's totally clean.

After that is done, I'll move on to the conditioner. For this, I use about 3-4 pumps (I have a lot of hair), and again while upside down, I'll apply the conditioner to my ends. I really go about three inches away from my scalp. I work in the conditioner the best I can and gently work through any knots or tangles I may currently have. I let that sit for about 2-3 minutes and usually wash my body during this time. After sitting, I rinse again really thoroughly to make sure all is out.


Post Shower Routine: 

Once out of the shower, I use these microfiber drying scrunchies and tie my hair into a bun before I'm ready to style it. These scrunchies are a newer product and before I was just using a regular towel. I knew they were too harsh for wet hair but I didn't know what else I wanted to use until I stumbled across these. I have really been liking them!

When I'm ready to brush, I use the Tangle Teezer (also here in more colors). This brush has been a newer purchase and for the past however many (like 7? 8?) years I was using the Wet Brush. The wet brush is great and I have only one complaint: that it was hard to clean after a while. There would be little white fuzzy things on the end of the brush where the bulbs were and it kind of grossed me out. So I switched to the Tangle Teezer since it didn't have those on the ends. 

It's much easier to clean and I actually think I prefer it more overall than the WetBrush but the spikes on the edges can be a little uncomfortable at times. If you are sensitive to things like that, I'd stick with the wet brush!

When brushing, I always start with my ends and work my way up. I hold on to my hair at the base of where my ponytail would be and brush everything below (all upside down) and then work up to the roots. Once that is all untangled, I'll flip over and brush normally and find my part.

Once untangled and brushed, I'll pump 2 (maybe 3 if I'm feeling adventurous) pumps of Moroccanoil in my hands, rub it around to get a full coverage on my palms and then apply to my hair. I really focus on the lengths and ends of my hair for this and will work my way up when most of the product is gone. I try to avoid using oil products around my scalp.

And that's all I do to wet hair. When I can, I will try and let it air dry because it's what's best for your hair health but I find it weirdly holds up a lot better in terms of oil when I blow dry it. Not sure why!


Hair Styling:

I think this has a BIG part to play in my hair health and I kind of hate it because it's an expensive tale but it has been a really big game-changer for me. It's my Dyson Airwrap. It was a splurge but since getting it in, it's the only styling tool I've used in the past two years. It has replaced all my curling wands/irons, straightener and blowdryer. Before I was using the T3 curling wand and straightener, and the Bio Ionic blowdryer. Both were really great but I haven't had the need for them since the airwrap.

With the Dyson, it does get hot but not as hot as tools and not nearly as damaging. On Dyson's website, they explain that it styles your hair with air not extreme heat. And extreme heat is what damages hair so quickly and makes it appear not as healthy and shiny.

I always get asked if the Airwrap is "worth it" and it is if you have the money for it. It's always so hard to just say yes or no but it's truly an item I cannot live without and is worth the cost. It's definitely something different to get used to but once you get the hang of it, it's the absolute best. 

There are other "similar" items out there that people do love (that are a lot cheaper) like the Revlon or Drybar Styler. With this, it takes your damp hair to dry while smoothing it out but it can't do all that the Airwrap does. You can read my full review of the Airwap here on the blog. And yes, I've tried the longer barrels and still have them but they don't work that well and I do not recommend buying them.

Outside of the Airwrap, I use no other styling tools or products. I find that a lot of products make my hair more oily sooner and don't really help in any way I want them to, so I just avoid all together. Usually, after styling (when I curl using the Airwrap) I'll apply a small pump of MoroccanOil to my ends for shine and extra nourishment.


Next-Day(s) Routine: 

When it comes to keeping hair healthy in between washes (especially if you have oily hair like myself) it's all about your post-wash day routine. Spoiler alert: it as a lot of brushing lol. The main thing of note is a boar bristle brush. If you have the money, Mason Pearson has the top rated boar bristle brushes out there. But it will cost you! I personally use the Prose boar and nylon brush from an old sponsorship I did with them. Now do I think you need to be spending a lot of money on a boar bristle brush? Not really. There are some great (more affordable) ones out there -- especially from Amazon -- that have amazing reviews.

What I always suggest is to try out a more affordable option and if you find that you love it so much, later down the road you can purchase the more expensive version! I personally use a boar bristle and nylon brush since I have thinner and more tangle prone hair but a simple google search will help you decide what is best.

The benefits of a boar bristle brush are long with the main one being it does a really great job of taking the oils from your scalp and distributing them over your hair. The oils your hair produces are good and integral for your hair health but they can build up in one place (like your scalp) if not treated properly. Boar bristle brushes also do a really good job of picking up dirt and dust that your hair has collected throughout the day. It's like cleaning in between your washes! Boar bristles themselves are also really gentle on hair so it should cause less breakage and damage. 

So every morning and night I will brush and brush and brush my hair. I'll brush it at every angle and really focus on the scalp and moving any oils down and throughout. After I brush everything through (if I'm feeling up for it) I'll also give myself a little scalp massage. I probably do this about once a week. Just a few minutes moving around and massaging all over. This increases blood flow and encourages hair growth for thicker and longer hair. 

I'll brush a little more after the massage to detangle any knots I created and then clip it up into a very loose twist. I usually add a pump of MoroccanOil again to the ends to make sure they are nourished overnight and then I use these Drybar Clips and they are just about the only thing that holds all my hair up. I go to bed with it like that and over the night it usually falls out on it's own, which is fine. I'm pretty whatever about how my hair is overnight. I do use a Slip Silk pillowcase though! I love that for my hair and skin. Sometimes cotton can be too harsh. 

Dry Shampoo: 

I use dry shampoo as needed but I really have tried to cut back on it as much as possible. I used to go to bed with a full head of dry shampoo (without rubbing it in) to help absorb the oils as they come but I actually found that it was almost suffocating my scalp and then causing it to over produce oil. So I stopped that. I will use a lite amount (like less than a pump) around my hairline as needed for day 2 and 3. The early days I usually reach for Prose since it has a nice light weight formula and is somewhat better for my hair than others. Plus it is scentless which I really enjoy. 

For day 4 and on I will use the Drybar dry shampoo as needed -- usually only on the first day and then from there I will either cover it with a headband or just throw it up in a top knot. I like it because it's an aerosol so it's easy to apply and use. I hate the scent but it's the best out of all the ones I've tried (and I've tried them all). I like it the most because leaves the least amount of added texture. 


Oil Training: 

Everything I do above is to help "oil train" my hair to stop getting so oily so fast. It has helped for sure but it doesn't mean I still don’t get oily hair. It starts to creep in at the end of day 2 going on day 3 and gets worse from there. I don't ever think I'll be able to fully stop it from happening but it's a lot better than getting oily a few hours after wash. I think our hair is our hair and there's not much we can do about it but if we treat it right and give it what it needs, it will give back to us. 

Whew! Ok I think I covered just about everything -- and if not, wtf am I even doing?! I hope this is helpful for those reading it and if you have any further questions, drop them below or DM me


6 comments:

  1. It is like you are reading my mind about what I needed to read today. I have STRUGGLED with my hair for over a year now. I wasn't sure if it was hormones due to pregnancy/breastfeeding or what but my hair has just not been the same. Your hair sounds almost exactly like mine in regards to the oily/straight. I am going to try all the things! Thank you so much for the product suggestions, as well.

    One question: Do you ever go to sleep with your hair wet? If so, anything special to get it to not be a hot mess the next morning? I feel like blow drying it is probably the answer, but if you have any other suggestions I would love them!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I don’t but if you do, check out the drying scrunches it should help cut down on drying time!

      Delete
    2. They are already in my Amazon cart. Thank you again!

      Delete
  2. Do you have a go-to shower cap you use on days when you don’t wash?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I don’t! I just clip my hair up and then wait for it to totally dry whenever I get out

      Delete
  3. This post was so helpful!! Thank you! I've never heard of a boards brush and now I'm convinced I need it!

    ReplyDelete

New York City Fashion and Lifestyle Blog | Covering the Bases | All rights reserved.
Blogger Template Created by pipdig